Journal
Stories and reflections on wine, the people who make it, the places we gather, and the ideas that connect them. A journal of curiosity, discovery and the pleasures of the table.
On the Arele, a Memory of Silk: Appassimento as Valpolicella's Living Cultural Heritage
Across Valpolicella, the best grapes of the harvest now rest in the fruttai until December. Italy has put this rite forward to UNESCO, to protect a knowledge handed down through families rather than a method.
The Italian Dream: A long lunch in a garden, and the art of living behind Italy's closed doors
The first time I turned the pages of The Italian Dream, I had the reaction most foreigners have: I want to be in that book.
Through a long lunch in a garden and the houses of Italy's old families, it captures an art of living quietly preserved for generations.
It is a dream, of course, but one worth looking for, because it does exist.
Sixteen degrees of alcohol, and the word I keep writing in the margin
Every year the Valpolicella consortium asks me to taste the new Amarone. On paper, these wines should be exhausting. Lately one word keeps appearing in my notes.
Reasons to Care: Cortina called wine's language old. Renewal begins with what you enjoy.
Much of wine communication answers questions nobody has asked yet: information offered before interest exists. People find their way into wine through a moment, and knowledge follows when curiosity asks for it. Wine has no shortage of information. What it needs more of is invitation.
I put a piece of Etna lava in my mouth. It tasted of rock.
On Etna, I once picked up a fragment of lava and put it on my tongue. It tasted of rock. What soil really gives a wine turned out to be more interesting.
How do you judge a wine you have never tasted before?
The flight in front of us held wines none of the judges had ever tasted. How do you score what you cannot compare? Four questions proved enough.
A Chablis my student found thin, and what it taught us both
A student in Hong Kong told me a celebrated Chablis tasted thin. Nothing was wrong with her palate. She was simply measuring the wine before she had understood it.
Reading Wine: A question carried through twenty years of teaching becomes a book on telling style from quality
Knowing a wine and reading one are not the same thing. In Reading Wine, Jean Charles Viens offers a practical framework for understanding style and quality—for clearer judgement, fairer tasting and greater pleasure.
Franciacorta in China, a long-term vision…
It gives me great satisfaction to have had an active role in influencing and guiding this initial stage. For me, the work of an “Ambassador” was always so much more than conducting a few masterclasses here and there. It was to be involved from the get-go with establishing an effective strategy to favour long-term success. Most of all, however, I feel privileged to have worked under the leadership of Silvano Brescianini, the President of the Consorzio.
Amarone… The Boom Generation, a Masterclass & a Paradigm Shift
In the context of “Amarone Opera Prima” held last June in Verona, I had a chance to present my case for the Amarone of the future. Focusing on six emblematic producers, my aim was to convince an audience of more than 100 journalists from around the world that the region is going through a generational change and seek to produce an Amarone both as an expression of place and a symbol of excellence.
Building a Market for Italian Wine: Lessons from Hong Kong
The experience of France and Australia in the Hong Kong market has demonstrated that a focus on consumer-centric events and a high level of support for importers are critical to their outstanding success.
Taste Like a Pro, a Framework
This column is the last of twenty-three instalments which aim to shed light on the various factors that influence the style and quality of a wine. With this issue, I want to share my approach to tasting wine and hopefully embolden wine lovers and students, even those pursuing the Master of Wine title, to approach the task with confidence and a sure strategy.
Should I Stay or Should I Go…
However, after more than 5 years on the program, after countless hours of tastings and study, after a great deal of investment, both financial and emotional, I now see myself analyzing more than my strengths and weaknesses. I see myself digging deep inside my soul to confront the brutal truth: do I have the personality to pass this exam and if so, am I still willing to focus on what needs to be focused on to achieve this goal? More brutal still, why should I do so?
China, The Next Big Thing in the Wine World?
Although China has had a high profile for several years already, it can be argued as to whether her true impact is yet to be felt in the world of wine. With a population of 1.3 billion and a super charged economy that has grown, and is expected to continue growing, at an extremely fast pace, it is no wonder that those with a product to sell have already thought of her as a potential buyer. Beyond demographics and economics, we will review key wine related factors to demonstrate that China has only begun to make itself felt and she is indeed the next big thing in the world of wine.