From the Archive — Hong Kong, 2012
Originally written following a Hong Kong Wine Society tasting. Lightly edited for spelling and clarity; the original voice and impressions have been preserved.
Whenever I join a tasting organised by Nigel and hosted by the HK Wine Society, I count my blessings. And how much I have to count! Especially last month, when we experienced quite a few "Old Madeiras".
On the flight, we had wines from 1875, 1900, 1920, and 1968, as well as some younger wines.
What was beautiful to me was trying to understand the character of such old wines. They were very unique. These wines were shaped by both the grape and the production method.
The oldest were all Malvasia-based, a.k.a. "malmsey". Typically, Malmsey wines are the sweetest from Madeira. This is partly because the grape tends to produce high levels of sugar, and partly because fermentation is stopped when the wines have at least 60 g/l. It also has high natural acidity, which is key to achieving a good balance so that the resulting sweet style is not cloying and stays fresh.
Here, such wines undergo an extraordinary maturation process after fermentation. They are stored in barrels and in the "canteiro", usually the winery's hottest room. Most likely, this is an attic with a roof well exposed to the hot sun. In the process, part of the wine slowly evaporates, not only concentrating the remaining sugar, acidity and alcohol, but also exposing the wine to air and so ever so slowly oxidising it, or, as we often hear, "maderising" it. The resulting flavours are reminiscent of burnt sugar and/or roasted nuts. An acquired taste for most who like their wines fresh & fruity...
And so it was no different with this wine. Obviously, the longer it remains in the canteiro, the more intense the effect of “maderisation” will be. For this 1875, I could not find out when it was bottled. However, from the relative cleanliness of the label and the relatively "modern" looking typeface, I suppose it was bottled less than 20 years ago.
And so?
Reserva Velha Barbeito Malvasia Madeira 1875
The nose was extraordinarily complex. Very difficult to explain simply with descriptors. It was a mixture of aromas and a general impression not unlike what could be used to describe a richly and carefully woven fabric. Here, the expression "layers" of complexity is not a cliché. Each sniff releases something entirely different, all working together in beautiful harmony. I suppose it is much like a symphony of aromas. Indeed, notes of citrus, more like the dried zests from a potpourri composed of grapefruit, lime, and lemon. Certainly nuts. Roasted, smoky walnuts, almonds, and chestnuts. Indeed, caramel, burnt sugar, and sponge toffee. Certainly a touch of coffee and blond tobacco...
On the palate, rich & luscious... Seductive... Delicious... Sinful... A wine that no one wants to part with, reflecting how much it engages, caresses, seduces and enchants... Beautiful mid-palate: sweet but not cloying, delicious... A long aftertaste, very long and engaging. Complex and lip-smacking. Impossible not to go for another taste. Sinful...
A wonderful experience... to say the least...